Edinburgh at Christmas

Edinburgh is one of our most favourite places to be during the months of November and December. We lived in this beautiful city for many years and have since visited many times during the festive season so know it very well. We have done our best to curate a perfect 2-day itinerary that will help you soak up the best of the city’s Christmas charm.

Here’s a quick summary of the 2-day Edinburgh festive itinerary:

Day 1: Edinburgh Christmas Market, Rides at the Christmas Market, Festive Decorations in New Town, the Dome, Ice Skating, Christmas at the Botanics

Day 2: Old Town, Royal Mile & Grassmarket, Scotch Whisky Experience or Camera Obscura, Castle of Light, Ghost Walk (or alternative evening show/event)

Day 1: Christmas Markets, Sights, and Cosy Traditions

Christmas market stalls in Edinburgh

On your first day, we’ll concentrate on visiting Edinburgh’s famous Christmas market and discovering the city’s New Town. You might also want to check this post full of ideas on things to do in Edinburgh at Christmas in case you’d like to add anything to your itinerary.

Morning

  • Christmas Market: Start off with a visit to Edinburgh’s Christmas Market early in the morning to beat the crowds. We’ve found it much more enjoyable to visit the market first thing as it does get incredibly busy later in the day, however, feel free to shift things around. Located in Princes Street Gardens, this famous market is a great place to pick up Christmas gifts, and sample festive food and drink. The market is open from 10am until 10pm. (Local residents with an EH postcode) can enjoy a 20% discount on all attractions at Edinburgh’s Christmas.
  • Ride the Big Wheel: if you have time (or the inclination), why not go on a ride of the Big Wheel for stunning panoramic views of the city. Or if you prefer more of an adrenaline rush, then jump on the star-flyer. These rides are located within the main Christmas Market in Princes Street Gardens. Click here to book tickets.

Christmas Decorations & Lunch

Christmas decorations at the Gleneagles Townhouse
  • Admire the Christmas decorations: head to nearby George Street in Edinburgh’s New Town for some fabulous festive decorations. Our favourites are mostly centred in St Andrews Square (at the East end of George Street). Check out the following decorations: Gleneagles Townhouse (pic above), The Edinburgh Grand, The Ivy, Tigerlily (on George St) and last but not least… the Dome.
  • Food at the Dome: We highly recommend lunch or afternoon tea at the iconic Dome on George Street. It’s something of an Edinburgh institution and an absolute must on your festive itinerary. Unsurprisingly, it’s very popular so we do recommend booking ahead to avoid disappointment (the festive diary opened on 11th March 2025!) It’s decked in its festive decor from 20th Oct 2025 til 11th Jan 2026. There are plenty of other options on George Street and around if you’re unable to get a table at the Dome. Some of our favourites include Baba (Middle-east inspired), Contini’s (authentic Italian food), Chaophraya (fabulous Thai rooftop restaurant), Copper Blossom (they do amazing cocktails), Browns.

Afternoon

Ice rink in Edinburgh at Christmas
  • Ice-skating: After lunch, consider going ice skating at the rink located nearby on West George St, between Castle Street and Charlotte Square. It’s a perfect way to burn off those lunch calories while embracing the winter fun! If skating isn’t your thing, cosy up with a cup of mulled wine from one of the market stalls next door and watch the skaters glide by. This is a smaller, more intimate Christmas market compared to the main one in Princes Street Gardens. We enjoy the quieter vibe there. Click here to book tickets.

Late Afternoon/ Evening

Tunnel of Light at the Botanics Edinburgh
You’ll feel like you’ve walked straight into the pages of a fairy tale.
  • Christmas at the Botanics: As evening falls, walk, catch a bus or taxi to Christmas at the Botanics. The gardens are located to the north of the city and are a lovely 20 minute walk if you have time or an easy 5-10 minute taxi ride away. This evening light trail through the Royal Botanic Gardens is a mesmerising spectacle, with thousands of twinkling lights illuminating the gardens in creative and magical displays (make sure you read our post on visiting the Botanics at Christmas). The experience is enhanced with food stalls, and festive winter-warmers (think mulled cider, wine or hot chocolate) to keep you warm as you wander through the illuminated pathways. Entry is available from 4:15pm until 8pm with specific time slots every 15 minutes. Make sure you book your tickets ahead!

Food is available at the Botanics or alternatively head back into town for some dinner, however, you’re probably ready to collapse into bed after this action-packed day! 

Day 2: Exploring the Old Town & Castle of Light

Edinburgh Castle of Light

On day 2, we’ll continue your festive journey by exploring Edinburgh’s Old Town and all it has to offer.

Morning:

  • Old Town Stroll: Begin your second day with a visit to Edinburgh’s historic Old Town. Wander down the cobbled streets on the Royal Mile, head down Victoria Street to the Grassmarket. Visit some of the local shops, decorated for the season. Soak in the festive atmosphere and marvel at the architecture.
  • Lights at The Witchery: As you explore the Royal Mile, don’t miss The Witchery by the Castle, known for its gothic charm. During Christmas, it’s adorned with beautiful lights and decorations, adding to its mysterious, enchanting vibe. If you’re able to splash some cash, dining here is a real bucket list experience, particularly in their Secret Garden.

Whisky, Illusions & Lunch:

Christmas tree at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh
  • The Scotch Whisky Experience: Take a tour to learn about whisky production (click here to book your tickets) and perhaps pick up a bottle of something special for Christmas. Their exterior is beautifully decorated during the festive season. Grab some lunch at their fabulous restaurant, Amber. It’s worth noting that you can visit the Amber Restaurant and Amber Bar without doing the tour (as well as the shop), however, make sure you book ahead.
  • Lunch: It’s worth planning/booking ahead for lunch as not only are restaurants very busy at this time of year but there are unfortunately lots of tourist traps located on the Royal Mile and nearby. As mentioned above, The Witchery and Amber restaurants are great options as well as Angels with bagpipes (great spot for a quick bite) Cannonball (views of the castle), Howies on Victoria Street (one of our favourites), Oink on Victoria Street (for eating on the go), The Devil’s Advocate.

Afternoon 

  • Castle of Light: From 4:30pm in the afternoon, head to Edinburgh Castle for the incredible Castle of Light event. The castle comes alive with captivating light projections, perfect for the holiday season. It’s an unforgettable experience for the entire family. We absolutely loved it, such a different experience of the iconic castle. Again, make sure you book your tickets ahead!

NOTE: Early bird prices are available until 30th September! Please use the discount code COLCM25 at checkout (excluded on members offer).

Evening:

Ghost-Bus-Tour-Edinburgh
  • Ghost Walk: round off your day with an evening ghost walk through the Old Town. You’ll get a chance to discover Edinburgh’s dark lanes, graveyards and eerie history. The atmosphere during winter, with the long nights and flickering festive lights, makes the experience even more chilling and fun. You can also check out the various shows and events happening in Edinburgh if you fancy an alternative to a spooky tour.

Here’s a selection of spooky tours:

→ 👻Haunted Underground Vaults and Graveyard Tour (4.6 stars)

→ 🦇The Dark Side Walking Tour (4.8 stars)

→ 🪄 Edinburgh’s Underground Vaults Tour (4.6 stars)

→ ☠️ Necro Bus Tour (4.4 stars)

→ 🧙 Harry Potter Walking Guided Tour (5 stars; last tour at 6pm and only in summer months)

So if you’re planning a visit to Edinburgh in December (or November!), we hope that this 2-day festive itinerary will help you experience the city’s magical atmosphere.

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